Category Archives: fish

mackerel, fennel, pomegranate

Mackerel may not be regarded as the most luxurious of fish – it’s not rare, delicate, or expensive – but that’s no reason not to put it centre stage. With its wonderful appearance – especially when the skin is cooked and turns various hues of silver and gold – and its meaty flavour and texture, it makes a delicious (and nutritious) highlight to any meal.

Because mackerel is a strong tasting and ‘oily’ fish, it needs to be balanced with acidity and fresh flavours. Fennel with mint and yogurt provide a good match, and orange and pomegranate bring both colour and citrus.

You’ll need, per serving:

One mackerel fillet
Half a fennel
A teaspoon or so of natural yogurt
Fresh mint, chopped – to taste
A few slices of orange
Pomegranate seeds

All you need to do is to shave the fennel as thinly as possible – a mandolin is great for this job, but a sharp knife will do the job just as well. Then add a little yogurt, no more than a heaped teaspoon, and mix it in. You want to barely coat the fennel, not slather it. Add some fresh mint to taste.

Put a small splash of sunflower or groundnut oil in a frying pan. Once the pan is good and hot, lay the mackerel fillet in, skin side down. Fry for 2 minutes, then turn the fish over, and fry for another minute.

Serve by placing a small mound of the fennel slaw on the centre of the plate. Lay the mackerel fillet on top. Decorate the plate with slices of orange and the pomegranate seeds in any way you like!

an Autumn feast

Autumn. It’s when we come over all ‘season of mists’ as the final leaves fall from the trees and the mornings start to have a distinct chill to them.

As we approach the end of November, summer and harvest festivals already seem a long time past. There are still several weeks to go until Christmas. And yet… it’s a wonderful time for the food lover, bringing as it does new crops of comforting fruit and vegetables alongside the last throes of earlier seasonal ingredients.

It seems an ideal time, then, for a celebration – a feast to brighten the longer, dark evenings, to make the very best of autumnal produce, and to mark a kind of midpoint between harvest time and Christmas.

I suppose ‘feast’ conjures visions of lavish expense, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Since we moved to our current house 2 years ago, I’ve been constantly surprised at how much we can grow (and I’m no expert!) for ourselves, and how much we save on food shopping expenditure as a result. We don’t have a large garden, but we’ve put in small fruit trees where we can, dug out a couple of dedicated vegetable patches, and planted a lot of herbs and fruit bushes in the borders.

Growing our own also means I’ve become even more aware of seasonality and the rhythms of the year, and how much better everything genuinely looks and tastes when it’s grown at the ‘right’ time. As I say, I don’t regard myself as a gardener, but I can’t imagine not growing my own now.

Anyway, enough talking, and more feasting. What follows is 3 courses, but I’ll be blogging about pre- and post-prandial nibbles and drinks shortly, just in time for Christmas! And for those who don’t eat meat, I’ll post alternatives to the starter and main course soon, too.

To start: pan-fried mackerel with fennel and mint slaw, orange, and pomegranate

Next: roast mallard with red wine-poached pears, roasted celeriac, parsnips, wild mushrooms, and sautéed kale

To finish: butternut squash, apple, ginger, and roasted cobnut trifle

If you want help with planning a garden design that will give you your own seasonal fruit and vegetables to feast on, it’s worth thinking about getting expert help. Floral & Hardy specialises in contemporary garden design and tailors gardens to meet the needs of the consumer. They take on many challenging gardens of all sizes and have an expert team who work out how to use space effectively.

With thanks to Floral & Hardy for their kind sponsorship of this post.

a summer salad

I don’t know about you, but I’m loving this glorious sunshine and – finally – the chance to enjoy some suitably summery salads, and the chance to make use of my veg patch crops, like this magnificent and intensely lemony red-veined sorrel.

I grow a number of varieties of salad greens, as well as some ‘usual’ summer vegetables (such as courgettes), as well as innumerable herbs. A few days ago, I put a few of these all on a plate, together with a hard-boiled egg, and some delicious lemon and garlic-marinated anchovies (kindly given to me by Lola Espana to try). While the anchovies are obviously not Kentish, I must admit that they combined beautifully with the rest of the salad, particularly the sorrel. You could easily use, say, mackerel, sardines, whitebait, or even sprats instead, if you want to use locally-caught fish.

So what went in the salad? Mizuna, wild rocket, courgette flowers, borage flowers, red-veined sorrel, egg, anchovies, croutons. And finished with a a generous drizzle of local rapeseed oil.

sea bass and samphire

Samphire is another of summer’s all-too-fleeting joys. At the moment, the local stuff is wonderfully tender and a fantastic colour. I could – and do - happily eat it on its own, dripping with melted butter. But for a special treat, it sits beautifully with sea bass.

sea bass and samphire

Allow about 100g of samphire per person, and one bass (gutted, scaled, and filleted) between two. Rinse the samphire well, several times, and discard any woody or damaged stems. Steam or boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Drain, and add a generous knob of unsalted butter.

To cook the bass, heat the oven to 180C. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil or butter in a pan until it is almost smoking. Add the (seasoned) sea bass fillets to the pan, skin side down. Fry for about 4 minutes, until the skin has turned crisp and golden. Turn the bass over, and put in the oven for a couple more minutes.

Serve immediately. For added colour and peppery interest, I simply sliced some homegrown radishes and scattered them around the plate.

This blogpost was the winner of the Kin Knives Best Recipe 2 competition.

grilled sardines, orange and red onion salad

 sardines orange salad

Few things beat grilled or barbecued fish on a hot day. Glistening, salty sardines from the southern Kent coast are a favourite for me at this time of year, and – combined with a refreshing orange and red onion salad to cut through the sardines’ natural oiliness – they make a delicious meal, bringing back memories of sunset barbecues and Mediterranean holidays of summers past.

Gut and scale your sardines, remove the gills, and cut off the fins. Brush lightly with oil on both sides, and season. Grill or barbecue for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, until the skin starts to bubble up and char. While waiting for the sardines, segment an orange, removing all the peel, pith and pips. Slice a red onion as finely as you can, and put in a bowl with the orange pieces. Toss in a light olive oil, or similar. I add a few micro mint leaves to serve. Eat immediately.

sardines orange salad 2

And, if you’d like to try a wine to pair with specifically with these flavours, do try Chapel Down Wines’ suggestion of their superb Bacchus 2010.